c a m import export
text by FRANÇOIS SIMON
photography by OLIVIER ZAHM
this is what a restaurant
should be like in our day and age —
a place of indulgence, peace, reconciliation
Thunderbolts lie hidden these days. These restaurants disguise themselves, blend into the crowd, lie low. After all, there are enough gaudy Parisian restaurants trying to be beautiful, tough, polite, smart, or local enough to set their customers’ hearts at ease. We need some hidden places, like this one in Paris on the Rue au Maire, near République, a tad rough and unadorned. Just the kind of lair, den, or hermit’s cell where you can feed in peace. Well, peace might not be exactly the word. Since they don’t take reservations (does that come as any surprise?), right at 7 PM you have to make a dash for the (seven or eight) stools here,…