photography by MATTHIAS VRIENS
interview by OLIVIER ZAHM
OLIVIER ZAHM — Your family basically built Hollywood. Why haven’t you been tempted to act?
LIZ GOLDWYN — I’m a director and a producer. I prefer to be in control. My grandmother was a silent film actress but my grandfather was a producer, as is my father, and two of my brothers. Another brother is an actor and a director also… So yes movies do run in my family blood.
OLIVIER ZAHM — Where does your love for fashion come from?
LIZ GOLDWYN — My father showed me many Fellini films when I was little. The first film I ever saw was 8 1/2, so I was always interested in an over-the-top, exaggerated sense of style or how clothing creates “character.” I love the stories connected to clothing—it’s an intimate way to learn about our own history and culture, like storytelling passed down through garments. For the same reason I find vintage or old clothes beautiful—to discover the lives that one piece of clothing has led. My mother has some beautiful clothing, but isn’t as into it as I am. My father, on the other hand, is a total clothes horse! He has all his suits custom made, and might have a bigger closet than I do! He really understands my interest in clothing and couture, and appreciates it.
OLIVIER ZAHM — Where does your interest in burlesque, explored in your first film, come from?
LIZ GOLDWYN — I started collecting burlesque costumes when I was eighteen. I found two old costumes in a flea market and photographed myself in them for my thesis in photography. When I tried to re-create the glamour of old pin ups, I found I lacked the confidence and “sexuality” that original burlesque queens seemed to emanate. So I wrote letters to the women I’d bought the costumes from. One led me to another and then it took off into ten years of research.
OLIVIER ZAHM — What’s the appeal of burlesque to women today?
LIZ GOLDWYN — Women certainly gained freedom thanks to women’s liberation movements. But I also have a reaction against the idea that in order to be taken seriously—professionally, intellectually—we must be devoid of sexuality and of that which makes us a sexy woman. Burlesque queens had so much power and control by understanding and using their sexuality. Of course, it’s a fine line. But burlesque queens raised the delicacy of the tease to an art form.
OLIVIER ZAHM — What was it about jewellery that inspired you to start designing you own line?
LIZ GOLDWYN — It’s tactile unlike film: something you can touch and wear, a solid mass as opposed to an ephemeral mixture of emotion, sound and image.
OLIVIER ZAHM — You collect dresses. Can you describe one of your favorites?
LIZ GOLDWYN — This changes from moment to moment, but it’s always connected with my own sentiments. I’m always falling in love with clothes, new and old. When I meet a designer who I think has a unique sensibility and talent, a rawness and true artistic nature, I fall a bit in love with them as well—no matter if they’re a man or woman!
Cashmere sweater with lace sleeves and sequined buttons AZZARO, leather glove skirt MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC, high heels YVES SAINT LAURENT, veiled hat LIZ GOLDWYN’s own
Bustier dress with draped flowers in aubergine lamé SONIA RYKIEL, metal belt LIZ GOLDWYN’s own and draped metal bracelet designed by LIZ GOLDWYN
Interlocked strap dress with medusa buttons and buckles vintage VERSACE, studded leather bracelet “Médor” HERMÈS
Black hooded raincoat vintage THIERRY MUGLER, scorpion brooch AZZARO, diamond bracelets BOCHIC
Cascading cape of muslin roses and high heels YVES SAINT LAURENT
Cut-out wool dress with pleated tulle lining RODARTE, rose quartz necklace designed by LIZ GOLDWYN, bracelets LIZ GOLDWYN’s own
Narcissa Drive, stylist — Kate Lee, make-up — Rolando Beauchamps @ BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, hair
[Table of contents]
by Olivier Zahm
by Olivier Zahm
by Bob Nickas
by Gary Indiana
by Olivier Zahm
by Yan Céh
by Glenn O'Brien
by Carlo Antonelli
by Olivier Zahm
by Olivier Zahm
by Horst Diekgerdes
by Alexei Hay
by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
by Matthias Vriens
by Katja Rahlwes
by Serge Leblon
by Liz Collins
by Jork Weismann
by Vava Ribeiro
by Juergen Teller
by Hedi Slimane
by Nathaniel Goldberg