Purple Magazine
— F/W 2006 issue 6
Fall Winter 2006/2007: Vincent Gallo
photographer TERRY RICHARDSON
featuring VINCENT GALLO
This year’s winter collections are all about the new austerity: hidden beauty, solemn opulence, as well as sexual isolation, solitude—reserved even when they’re revealing, masculine even when they’re feminine. Men’s cuts and religious or military influences haven’t been adapted for women so much as re-assigned.
Here, dressed in women’s clothing, actor-film maker-musician Vincent Gallo reinforces these gender-appropriating trends—aggressively displaying these feminine clothes as the remnants of authority figures, clerics, judges, and military figures. It’s not the New Romantics, not David Bowie make-up and lizard-like costumes, not hair bands like Queen, or the salad days of disco, but more like the unlikely masculinity of Louis XIV in high-heels and frills, or the couples of Argentinean men who dance the tango—a verifiable toughness that comes through despite, or maybe because of, feminine outfits.
Maybe this masculine/feminism is redefining identity—the radical assimilation of masculine and feminist conservatism: the Sons of Thatcher, a new Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, cross-dressers from a secretive Skull and Bones-like Society, a classical and conservative aesthetic where the boys are allowed to show off and dress up like the Daughters of the Revolution, hostesses in drag, serious to the bone, tough as Robert Mitchum.
– OLIVIER ZAHM
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Voluptuous blue and white gown and fetching shoes GILES.
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Men’s jacket embeded in ceremonial gold dress COMME DES GARÇONS
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Woolen dress and long shaggy trapper-coat KARL LAGERFELD
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Chesterfield armrest dress HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
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Royal blue silk party dress LANVIN
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Revenge of the Avengers coat with fur trim and black jacket BURBERRY PRORSUM
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Redux Tailcoat, tuxedo pants and cummerbund DIOR HOMME by HEDI SLIMANE
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Highlander’s brown jacket with white ruffled blouse ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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High fetishist vinyl dress YVES SAINT LAURENT, high heels HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
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Captivating platform boots BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE Back from the war coat and boots RICK OWENS
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Winter in the army dress LOUIS VUITTON, boots RICK OWENS. Shaggy scarf ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, trenchcoat VIKTOR & ROLF, shoes LOUIS VUITTON.
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Gray chevron bubble silk coat BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE
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Wide grey slacks, shirt and checked sweater YVES SAINT LAURENT, white leather pumps GILES.
