DEMNA GVASALIA, fashion designer, Paris
interview by CAROLINE GAIMARI
photos by ARI VERSLUIS
style by LOTTA VOLKOVA ADAM
CAROLINE GAIMARI — How is Vetements organized?
DEMNA GVASALIA — It’s really group work; it’s a very democratic creative process. Whether it concerns the choice of stores we sell in, design concepts, the choice of fabrics or colors, everyone has input. But then I filter and edit it. Someone needs to make a decision. If not, it’s chaos! We have a studio, but it’s a nightmare. We don’t have enough space. We are 15 people, and my table was taken over last week because new interns arrived. Now I have to work from home!
CAROLINE GAIMARI — How did you get started?
DEMNA GVASALIA — I started it with two friends, colleagues from a previous job with whom I kept in contact, and with whom there was a constant dialogue about what we did and didn’t like in fashion. At first, it was just the three of us. I financed it at the beginning, and it was from my living room. Then some others joined us along the way — people we knew from before and also people just coming out of school.
CAROLINE GAIMARI — Was there a specific catalyst that encouraged you to start the brand?
DEMNA GVASALIA — There is pressure in the industry to do a collection every three months and to come up with ideas more and more quickly, with no time to analyze or really even think about them. Aesthetically, there was something we wanted to do that we didn’t really see. The girls that we think are cool, the ones we consider to be “our women,” often either buy vintage stuff or wear old pieces that they’ve owned for years. We wanted to dress these women. It didn’t start out as a desire to create our own brand, but more to not lose the kind of passion we had and the result of our design process. We were all working for different houses, which can be fun and great, but at the end of the day it wasn’t really “our” work.
CAROLINE GAIMARI — Where were you working at the time?
DEMNA GVASALIA — I worked for four years at Margiela and almost two years at Vuitton. Two very different experiences, but both educational. The idea...
[November 24 2015] : ArtView the gallery
Apres Eden at La Maison Rouge is an exhibition highlighting the exceptional photography acquisitions of Artur Walther. Working with curator Simon Njami, Walther presents his collection through a series of distinct rooms representing different aspects of the human experience. Highlights of the exhibition include Daido Moriyama, Kohei Yoshiyuki‘s series The Park, Nobuyoshi Araki, Karl Blossfeldt and Eadweard Muybridge.
Photo and text Juliana Balestin