Purple Diary

purple fashion magazine
— F/W 2015 issue 24


DEMNA GVASALIA, fashion designer, Paris

photos by ARI VERSLUIS


CAROLINE GAIMARI — How is Vetements organized?
DEMNA GVASALIA — It’s really group work; it’s a very democratic creative process. Whether it concerns the choice of stores we sell in, design concepts, the choice of fabrics or colors, everyone has input. But then I filter and edit it. Someone needs to make a decision. If not, it’s chaos! We have a studio, but it’s a nightmare. We don’t have enough space. We are 15 people, and my table was taken over last week because new interns arrived. Now I have to work from home!

CAROLINE GAIMARI — How did you get started?
DEMNA GVASALIA — I started it with two friends, colleagues from a previous job with whom I kept in contact, and with whom there was a constant dialogue about what we did and didn’t like in fashion. At first, it was just the three of us. I financed it at the beginning, and it was from my living room. Then some others joined us along the way — people we knew from before and also people just coming out of school.

CAROLINE GAIMARI — Was there a specific catalyst that encouraged you to start the brand?
DEMNA GVASALIA — There is pressure in the industry to do a collection every three months and to come up with ideas more and more quickly, with no time to analyze or really even think about them. Aesthetically, there was something we wanted to do that we didn’t really see. The girls that we think are cool, the ones we consider to be “our women,” often either buy vintage stuff or wear old pieces that they’ve owned for years. We wanted to dress these women. It didn’t start out as a desire to create our own brand, but more to not lose the kind of passion we had and the result of our design process. We were all working for different houses, which can be fun and great, but at the end of the day it wasn’t really “our” work.

CAROLINE GAIMARI — Where were you working at the time?
DEMNA GVASALIA — I worked for four years at Margiela and almost two years at Vuitton. Two very different experiences, but both educational. The idea...

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[November 26 2015] : Love

A drawing by Christophe Brunnquell painted on actress Rinko Kikuchi , Tokyo.

A drawing by Christophe Brunnquell painted on actress Rinko Kikuchi , Tokyo.

Photo Chikashi Suzuki

[November 26 2015] : Travel

A trip to Zabriskie Point and Death Valley
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A trip to Zabriskie Point and Death Valley

The line “As I walk through the Valley in the shadow of Death” – reworked from Psalm 23:4 into the opening to Coolio’s ‘Gangster’s Paradise’ – echoed through my mind as we vaulted ahead into an infinite landscape. To the left, a huge wing of darkness was spreading out like spilled ink onto the wide plain as the sun dropped down behind the Inyo Mountains. To the right, the high, sparse clouds cast dramatic shadows onto the rugged rockfaces of the Panamint Range. Once through the pass, there is no other exit. We were riding inexorably into Death Valley.

Hurtling across this extreme terrain inside an air-conditioned bubble of European Volvo technology meant that... Read More

Photo Hannah Bhuiya and @theartofchase, text Hannah Bhuiya

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