photography and text by MAX FARAGO
Patagonia is where Bruce Chatwin looked for dinosaurs and found Welsh settlers. So last Christmas, my girlfriend Clara and I went and had a look for ourselves. We didn’t find any fossils, but many of the rocks you see on the ground there have been worked on by the native Tehuelche people, and it is not uncommon to find carved knives or arrows that could be thousands of years old lying on the windblown earth.
Even though it was summer in Argentina, it was very windy. Yet the view more than made up for it — 180 degrees of earth and 180 degrees of ocean. The ocean is vast. You hardly ever see a passing boat, and sea lions lounge on the beach without a bother in the world. There are lambs by the coast, which feed on samphire plants and sea purslane, and when you cook one over an open fire it is already salted and delicious. Occasionally, you see a family of guanacos or ostriches pass, but other than that you are totally alone.
The house in the photos is on the Atlantic Coast and was built quite recently by the mother of my girlfriend. It is extremely remote; the nearest landmark is the small city of Comodoro Rivadavia, a couple of hours to the south. It takes about three days to drive to the house from Buenos Aires. Without a single turn in the road, it’s easy to go nuts — and this is just a fraction of the way into Patagonia.
The man who looks after the property is called Williams, and it’s a three-hour drive for him to drop off gas for our generator. When he arrives, we talk. He looks as though he has been farming in Wales for his entire life, yet he only speaks Spanish, has constant sunburn, and has never left Patagonia. It is hard to know how old Williams is, but he remembers tea as being the most important meal of the day at his grandparents’ house. That, too, is extremely remote.
[Table of contents]
Two girls in Shikoku and the Seto Inland Sea _ Japan
by Erika Kurihara
Carsten Höller in Kinshasa _ Democratic Republic of the Congo
by Carsten Höller
Robert MacFarlane _ Walking and the Wilderness
by Xerxes Cook
A day in Beirut with Charbel Haber from Scrambled Eggs _ Lebanon
by Negar Azimi
Two-Way Mirror / Hedge Arabesque by Dan Graham _ Fondazione Zegna _ Trivero _ Italy
by Xerxes Cook
Eileen Gray’s e.1027 house, 1929 _ (before renovation) _ Roquebrune- Cap-Martin _ France
by Peter Lyle
Shiraz to Esfahan (and back again) _ Iran
by Xerxes Cook
Bordallo Pinheiro Garden _ Lisbon _ Portugal
by João Basto
Terry Richardson x Jack Pierson _ Ready-made poems _ United States
by Terry Richardson and Jack Pierson
Christmas in Patagonia _ Argentina
by Max Farago
Cameron Smith and Kat Hessen _ On the road again
by Cameron Smith
Just back from Havana by Gary Indiana _ Cuba
by Gary Indiana
Victoire de Castellane _ Seychelles 2003 and Île de Ré 2013
Victoire de Castellane