interview
Co-creator of the cult magazine Libertin DUNE and editorial director of i-D Japan, Kazumi is a pivotal figure on Tokyo’s fashion scene and a longtime contributor to Purple.
PURPLE — How have the magazine culture and independent press evolved in Japan?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — I don’t think Japan is the only place where many people have been able to publish magazines, but I feel the diversity of interests and tastes has driven the freedom to produce independent magazines. Annual art book fairs have become so popular that it’s difficult to get admission tickets, reflecting the growing engagement with the independent press culture.
PURPLE — You’ve run clearly independent magazines like DUNE and Libertin DUNE, while others like Composite were around. Are independent magazines still being published in Japan today?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — I was partly involved with DUNE, but I founded Libertin DUNE with Charlie [Fumihiro Hayashi, aka Charlie Brown]. Although there aren’t many of them, independent magazines are still being published in Japan. Regularly producing a magazine requires immense stamina and dedication on many levels. Publications like Purple, which have maintained their commitment to independent publishing, deserve immense respect.
PURPLE — How is Japan in dialogue with fashion in East Asia, particularly South Korea and China? Are they seen as following the same trends?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — Each country maintains its own distinct fashion identity while also influencing the others. While there may be broader trends across Asia, each brand’s unique aesthetic and approach make their styles entirely distinct from one another.
PURPLE — Does Japan still have an underground scene? Is it visible today, or has it declined?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — I believe the underground culture has evolved into more diverse forms, with various underground scenes still thriving. For instance, the graffiti scene seems more vibrant than ever.
PURPLE — What do you like about Japan? And what do you dislike?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — As clichéd as it may sound, Japan’s charm lies in its safety, delicious food, rich nature, and ever-present culture of onsen [hot spring baths]. What I find less appealing is the strong sense of conformity. While this trait is tied to Japan’s aestheticism and emphasis on harmony, it can sometimes stifle individuality and the expression of opinions.
PURPLE — As a woman working in the creative scene, do you feel women still struggle more than men to be successful in Japan?
KAZUMI ASAMURA HAYASHI — I’m fortunate to work in an industry where many women thrive as artists and leaders. They are independent thinkers, unafraid of change, and highly proactive. However, I believe their success stems from overcoming challenges along the way. Across Japan, particularly in politics and society, women’s participation remains limited. Too often, women are seen as competent supporters, and the opportunities for them to fully showcase their talents are still restricted.
[Table of contents]
editor’s letter
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empire of signs
by Roland Barthes
cover #1 takashi murakami
interview by Jérôme Sans
takashi murakami
interview by Jérôme Sans
ryoko sekiguchi
interview by Mark Alizart and Olivier Zahm
cover #2 motoko ishibashi
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motoko ishibashi
interview by Aleph Molinari
atsuko tanaka
by Atsuko Tanaka
sexual assault breaking the silence
by Karyn Nishimura-Poupée
juergen teller and nobuyoshi araki
Subscriptionchiho aoshima
Subscriptionhajime sawatari
Subscriptioncover #3 katerina jebb
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fetish magazines
by Katerina Jebb
tadanoori yokoo
text by André Michel
kazumi asamura hayashi
Subscriptionkeiichi tanaami
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fumihiro hayashi
text by Olivier Zahm
cover #4 tomoo gokita
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tomoo gokita
interview by Olivier Zahm
cover #5 loewe s/s 2025
photography by Suffo Moncloa
loewe s/s 2025
photography by Suffo Moncloa
hajime sorayama
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my father
by Rick Owens
announcement to humanity
by Ryoko Sekiguchi
suwa nagano
by Stéphane Sednaoui
cover #6 masahisa fukase
Subscriptionmasahisa fukase
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hajime kinoko
interview by Olivier Zahm
raiki yamamoto
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nobuyoshi araki
portrait by Chikashi Suzuki
kunichi nomura
text by Aaron Rose
aya takano
Subscriptiontomoyo kawari
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masaru hatanaka
interview by Aleph Molinari
why japan?
by Urs Fischer, Ramdane Touhami, Stéphane Sednaoui
cover #7 prada s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
best of the season s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
cover #8 esther rose-mcgregor in valentino s/s 2025
photography by Hart Lëshkina
cover #9 balenciaga s/s 2025
photography by Juergen Teller
balenciaga s/s 2025
photography by Juergen Teller
cover #10 bottega veneta
photography by Nikolai von Bismarck
cover #11 nobuyoshi araki
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cover #12 comme des garçons s/s 2025
photography by Ola Rindal
cover #13 dualité by brioni and lalique
photography by Olivier Zahm
cover #14 casablanca s/s 2025
photography by Keizo Motoda
cover #15 paul & joe
photography by Olivier Zahm
cover #16 saint laurent by anthony vaccarello s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
cover #17 miu miu s/s 2025
photography by Coco Capitán
cover #18 sakura andō in chanel s/s 2025
photography by Chikashi Suzuki
by Roland Barthes
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Mark Alizart and Olivier Zahm
interview by Aleph Molinari
by Atsuko Tanaka
by Karyn Nishimura-Poupée
by Katerina Jebb
text by André Michel
text by Olivier Zahm
interview by Olivier Zahm
photography by Suffo Moncloa
photography by Suffo Moncloa
by Rick Owens
by Ryoko Sekiguchi
by Stéphane Sednaoui
interview by Olivier Zahm
portrait by Chikashi Suzuki
text by Aaron Rose
interview by Aleph Molinari
by Urs Fischer, Ramdane Touhami, Stéphane Sednaoui
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Hart Lëshkina
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Nikolai von Bismarck
photography by Ola Rindal
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Keizo Motoda
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Coco Capitán
photography by Chikashi Suzuki