Purple Fashion
[06/25/2025]
Spring / Summer 2026 Saint Laurent Homme by Anthony Vaccarello presentation in Paris review by mavEric
It’s not a runway. It’s Wall Street meets Studio 54 after the apocalypse. Saint Laurent Homme Spring/Summer 2026 is what happens when the ghost of Grace Jones raids Michael Douglas aka Gordon Gekko’s wardrobe during a blackout in downtown Manhattan. The shoulders? So sharp they could cut through Reaganomics. Built like 80s ambition: excessive, angular, unapologetic. Vaccarello doesn’t reference the decade, he resurrects its drama and disciplines it into something post-capitalist, post-gender, post-bullshit. These are silhouettes made for shadowy elevators, backroom deals, midnight martinis and 6am regrets. Power dressing, yes but not to climb. To survive the fall. The colors hit like VHS static: aubergine, Dijon gold, boardroom brown, nicotine beige. It’s less “yuppie revival,” more burnt film reel of a decade that overdosed on itself. Each look is a love letter to control written in dry silk and spoken in whispers. Waists are cinched like secrets. Ties are nooses made glamorous. Pants? Pleated with the precision of a spreadsheet, yet flowing like a Prince ballad. Vaccarello reclaims the “power suit” not as nostalgia, but as sociology: a uniform for a masculinity in transition, not built to dominate, but to withstand. Saint Laurent SS26 isn’t here to blend in or break free. It’s here to take back the night, one brutal, beautiful shoulder pad at a time.
Text by mavERIC
