essay
by ROLAND BARTHES
French philosopher and semiotician Roland Barthes (1915–1980) visited Japan in 1966, where he wrote his famous essay Empire of Signs. The book shaped France’s intellectual and artistic fascination with Japan, serving as a key introduction to the country for decades. While sometimes critiqued as a form of Orientalism, it remains one of the most significant works written about Japan.
If I want to imagine a fictive nation, I can give it an invented name, treat it declaratively as a novelistic object, create a new Garabagne, so as to compromise no real country by my fantasy (though it is then that fantasy itself I compromise by the signs of literature). I can also — though in no way claiming to represent or to analyze reality itself (these being the major gestures of Western discourse) — isolate somewhere in the world (faraway) a certain number of features (a term employed in linguistics), and out of these features deliberately form a system. It is this system which I shall call: Japan.
Hence Orient and Occident cannot be taken here as “realities” to be compared and contrasted historically, philosophically, culturally, politically. I am not lovingly gazing toward an Oriental essence — to me the Orient is a matter of indifference, merely providing a reserve of features whose manipulation — whose invented interplay — allows me to “entertain” the idea of an unheard-of symbolic system, one altogether detached from our own. What can be addressed, in the consideration of the Orient, are not other symbols, another metaphysics, another wisdom (though the latter might appear thoroughly desirable); it is the possibility of a difference, of a mutation, of a revolution in the propriety of symbolic systems. Someday we must write the history of our own obscurity — manifest the density of our narcissism, tally down through the centuries the several appeals to difference we may have occasionally heard, the ideological recuperations which have infallibly followed and which consist in always acclimating our incognizance of Asia by means of certain known languages (the Orient of Voltaire, of the Revue Asiatique, of Pierre Loti, or of Air France). Today there are doubtless a thousand things to learn about the Orient: an enormous labor of knowledge is and will be necessary (its delay can only be the result of an ideological occultation); but it is also necessary that, leaving aside vast regions of darkness (capitalist Japan, American acculturation, technological development), a slender thread of light search out not other symbols but the very fissure of the symbolic. This fissure cannot appear on the level of cultural products: what is presented here does not appertain (or so it is hoped) to art, to Japanese urbanism, to Japanese cooking. The author has never, in any sense, photographed Japan. Rather, he has done the opposite: Japan has starred him with any number of “flashes”; or, better still, Japan has afforded him a situation of writing. This situation is the very one in which a certain disturbance of the person occurs, a subversion of earlier readings, a shock of meaning lacerated, extenuated to the point of its irreplaceable void, without the object’s ever ceasing to be significant, desirable. Writing is after all, in its way, a satori: satori (the Zen occurrence) is a more or less powerful (though in no way formal) seism which causes knowledge, or the subject, to vacillate: it creates an emptiness of language. And it is also an emptiness of language which constitutes writing; it is from this emptiness that derive the features with which Zen, in the exemption from all meaning, writes gardens, gestures, houses, flower arrangements, faces, violence.
END
EXCERPT FROM EMPIRE OF SIGNS BY ROLAND BARTHES, HILL AND WANG, THE NOONDAY PRESS, 1989, NEW YORK, TRANSLATED BY RICHARD HOWARD. ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN FRENCH AS L’EMPIRE DES SIGNES, COPYRIGHT 1970, ÉDITIONS D’ART ALBERT SKIRA S.A., GENEVA.
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editor’s letter
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empire of signs
by Roland Barthes
cover #1 takashi murakami
interview by Jérôme Sans
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cover #8 esther rose-mcgregor in valentino s/s 2025
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cover #9 balenciaga s/s 2025
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balenciaga s/s 2025
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cover #12 comme des garçons s/s 2025
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cover #13 dualité by brioni and lalique
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cover #15 paul & joe
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cover #17 miu miu s/s 2025
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cover #18 sakura andō in chanel s/s 2025
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by Roland Barthes
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Mark Alizart and Olivier Zahm
interview by Aleph Molinari
by Rick Owens
photography by Suffo Moncloa
interview by Olivier Zahm
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Hart Lëshkina
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Nikolai von Bismarck
photography by Ola Rindal
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Keizo Motoda
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Coco Capitán
photography by Chikashi Suzuki