essay
by RICK OWENS
At the end of World War II, my father was stationed in Japan as a mail carrier for the Allied troops. He later met my mother in Mexico and brought her to California to marry her. By the time I arrived, he was working as a social worker in a small conservative town, determining whether people were eligible for social benefits, which I believe ended up making him cynical, mistrustful, and somewhat bitter. The father I knew was racist, bigoted, and smugly judgmental. He did want to help people, but only on his own strict terms.
But at the back of his closet was a weathered wooden trunk, brought back from his time in Japan, that was like his secret soft spot. It contained padded, softly colored silk kimonos held together with intricately braided cords; sandalwood incense; and shantung-bound albums containing photos of my father as a pleasure-seeking young man in army uniform with his buddies at work or play. There were also photos of my father dressed in a traditional kimono alongside beautiful Japanese girls, also in kimonos, walking through a garden under an umbrella or standing on a bridge under falling blossoms. It was hard to imagine the father who sneered at my sissy flights of fantasy indulging in some glamorous exoticism of his own. Among his philosophy and theology books in his basement library were old books of Japanese watercolor landscape paintings, which were such a departure from the pedantic, morally superior character I was used to. These watercolors were all about dreamy, abstract ambiguity, as well as a tolerant point of view that seemed at odds with the man I knew.
As the main subject of his judgement, I ended up judging his judgement with some pretty harsh judgements of my own. I am always a bit conscious of my own tendency toward disapproval and perhaps over-correct myself by avoiding strong opinions and always trying to give the benefit of the doubt. I sense my father’s need for order and control in my own character, which descends directly from his. But I also thank him for instilling poetry and mystery in my life — in the reassurance of a dreamy watercolor, centuries old, of what might be a misty mountain landscape, open to interpretation…
[Table of contents]
editor’s letter
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empire of signs
by Roland Barthes
cover #1 takashi murakami
interview by Jérôme Sans
takashi murakami
interview by Jérôme Sans
ryoko sekiguchi
interview by Mark Alizart and Olivier Zahm
cover #2 motoko ishibashi
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motoko ishibashi
interview by Aleph Molinari
electric dress
by Atsuko Tanaka
sexual assault breaking the silence
by Karyn Nishimura-Poupée
juergen teller and nobuyoshi araki
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fetish magazines
by Katerina Jebb
tadanoori yokoo
text by André Michel
kazumi asamura hayashi
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fumihiro hayashi aka charlie brown
text by Olivier Zahm
cover #4 tomoo gokita
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tomoo gokita
interview by Olivier Zahm
cover #5 loewe s/s 2025
photography by Suffo Moncloa
loewe s/s 2025
photography by Suffo Moncloa
hajime sorayama
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my father
by Rick Owens
announcement to humanity
by Ryoko Sekiguchi
suwa nagano
by Stéphane Sednaoui
cover #6 masahisa fukase
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hajime kinoko
interview by Olivier Zahm
cover #7 prada s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
best of the season s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
cover #8 esther rose-mcgregor in valentino s/s 2025
photography by Hart Lëshkina
cover #9 balenciaga s/s 2025
photography by Juergen Teller
balenciaga s/s 2025
photography by Juergen Teller
cover #10 bottega veneta
photography by Nikolai von Bismarck
cover #11 nobuyoshi araki
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cover #12 comme des garçons s/s 2025
photography by Ola Rindal
cover #13 dualité by brioni and lalique
photography by Olivier Zahm
cover #14 casablanca s/s 2025
photography by Keizo Motoda
cover #15 paul & joe
photography by Olivier Zahm
cover #16 saint laurent by anthony vaccarello s/s 2025
photography by Takashi Homma
cover #17 miu miu s/s 2025
photography by Coco Capitán
cover #18 sakura andō in chanel s/s 2025
photography by Chikashi Suzuki
by Roland Barthes
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Jérôme Sans
interview by Mark Alizart and Olivier Zahm
interview by Aleph Molinari
by Atsuko Tanaka
by Karyn Nishimura-Poupée
by Katerina Jebb
text by André Michel
text by Olivier Zahm
interview by Olivier Zahm
photography by Suffo Moncloa
photography by Suffo Moncloa
by Rick Owens
by Ryoko Sekiguchi
by Stéphane Sednaoui
interview by Olivier Zahm
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Hart Lëshkina
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Juergen Teller
photography by Nikolai von Bismarck
photography by Ola Rindal
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Keizo Motoda
photography by Olivier Zahm
photography by Takashi Homma
photography by Coco Capitán
photography by Chikashi Suzuki