Spring / Summer 2026 Maison Margiela Review by Pedro Vasconcelos

Just as the sun came out after a rainy morning, Maison Margiela held its Spring/Summer 2026 show by Glenn Martens. A young orchestra, suited up in grown-up attire—perhaps a reference to Martin Margiela’s SS90 show—brightened the room.

Spider-shaped mouth gags, nodding to the brand’s iconic codes, added a sexual connotation that didn’t quite align with the collection’s spirit.

 To the sound of a slightly dissonant symphony, the Belgian designer unveiled a collection purposefully raw and imperfect. Duct tape held up necklines, leather jackets with their collars tucked in, wrinkly dresses freeze framed their folds.

Just as Galliano embraced drama for the brand, Martens favors playfulness. Alongside denim and leather, the designer has fun with chunky translucent jumpers that resemble bubble wrap and floral, paper-like overlays on knit jackets.

Ever the master of trompe-l’oeil, Marten’s most successful moments were discreet. Dinner jackets veiled by chiffon tricked the eye, demanding a double take. Through its sheer screen, suiting was ephemeral.

For a brand known for experimentation, this collection felt intentionally restrained. While the Artisanal line gives Martens total creative freedom, here he focuses on something else: clothes that speak beyond pure artistry.

Text by Pedro Vasconcelos