[10/03/2025]
For Spring/Summer 2026, Tom Ford’s sensuality is inebriated by Haider Ackerman’s twilight. In a dark set, the collection unfolds lustfully as models cruise around, parading in a state of controlled desire.
Sexuality is at its most euphoric when it leaves to the imagination. The opening looks, a triad of laser-cut patent leather coats, slits open as models move. Underneath the high gloss shine, skin is barely visible.
Ackerman’s codes were pushed to their most erotic Here color itself becomes a vehicle for seduction. An architecturally draped black dress teases a peek of mint.
To the sound of David Bowie’s voice, the French designer conjures images of Tony Scott’s film, “The Hunger” (1983). A glamorous couple in matching blue satin suits prowl in the darkness. Danger is palpable.
At times, the gentle seduction turns raw. Under sheer shorts, models proudly show their leather thongs. Laser cut leather returns, this time to resemble lace in lingerie dresses with exposed midriffs.
Translucency is further explored in suiting. A model’s hands are visible inside trousers’ pockets, the buttons on a shirt are easily countable underneath a sheer blazer.
The carnal dream climaxes in jersey dresses that cling mysteriously, one draped over the neck, the other barely touching the shoulders. Ackermann redefines what we crave most: glamour.
Text by Pedro Vasconcelos