[09/23/2025]
Dilara Findikoglu’s SS26, Cage of Innocence, stages female oppression and fantasizes on its sweet destruction.
Of the many forms these metaphorical chains assumed, the first was chromatic: white. Bound by the expectation of purity, garments began as innocent—a frilly dress, a lace-trimmed cape—only to slide into sleazier incarnations.
Belts became the most obvious yet effective device: a tight cotton jersey T-shirt molded into the shape of the corset beneath it, three belts binding the legs of a sheer black dress.
At times, the metaphor’s veil was entirely sheer—a model in a pristine babydoll dress gagged by her metal headgear. At others, it was brilliant, as in a cherry-adorned dress. The fruit, long tied to the policing of women’s bodies, was crushed into a corseted silhouette, its red staining the sheer paneling. Delicious.
Kiss-lock bags, symbols of the ever-looming push for commerciality, bulged with those same cherries, spilling from the inside out.
The Turkish designer’s seedy glamour conjures fantasies of freedom at a time when fashion’s creativity is shrinking. Dilara isn’t reminiscing on fashion’s legends, she’s becoming one.
Text by Pedro Vasconcelos